Aurum: Discover the Elements of Gastronomy
Reviewed by : Stephanie Lim. Other Foodadvisor Writers?
Aurum, as Singapore's first foray into the unknowns of molecular cuisine, has certainly made heads turn with its bold concept and distinctive food since its opening in December 2006. Much talked about were its golden wheelchairs, which took the place of regular seats, a show kitchen made to look like an operating theatre and, of course, the bizarre cuisine served. More recently, the restaurant moved out of its previous location within The Clinic and into its very own space in The Cannery at Clarke Quay, but without its full fleet of wheelchairs and funky discotheque décor.
- The Vibe
The new and improved Aurum seeks to impress with an opulent setting and a dose of modern chic. As aurum is Latin for gold, the restaurant uses a good deal of the colour, contrasting against a background of black and white. Raising the factor of controversy another notch are original artworks by English artist Damien Hirst. Thirteen interesting pieces portraying the Stations of the Cross from the Bible line the walls of this petite eatery that seats no more than 40. However, the lighting in the restaurant is unmistakably dim, putting the spotlight on the stars of the evening, the food and the maestros in the show kitchen.
- The Food
First introduced by a food scientist and a physicist in the 1980s, molecular cuisine was popularized by prominent figures in the culinary business, such as Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Spain and Heston Blumenthal of Fat Duck in England. Aurum sees a distinct influence of the former with Adria's disciple, Paco Roncero, acting as consultant to the restaurant. Brilliant and full of drive, Chef Edward Voon takes residency in the restaurant and together with his talented team, applies scientific principles to food preparation.
Satisfy your gastronomical desires with Aurum's Fantasy, a set meal that is really not set at all. Priced from $160++ onwards, the tasting menu consists of a series of tapas, entrées, mains and dessert; call in advance for it gives Chef Voon an opportunity to surprise you with his creativity and expertise.
The fantasy that the SD team sampled started off with a Texture of Green Olives, comprising of liquefied olives encased in a gelatinous shell. Unconventional, and slightly strange, the green spoonful was probably not the best way to initiate apprehensive diners. Next on the list of tapas was Shrimp Ravioli with Vinegar Air. The dish is distinctively Asian, reminiscent of the common wanton, but with the skin made of olive oil and a tinge of acidity in the air. One of Aurum's signature items would be the popular Martini Lychee Caviar, made by the spherification of lychee solution. Other noteworthy items included a king crab salad nestled atop foamed Bloody Mary, warm liquefied ham and pink cotton candy with an electrifying center of mint and tamarind.
More of Aurum's specialties will be the Omelette of the XXI Century and the Golden Shitake Broth. The former is truly a spectacle in a martini glass; caramelized onions and raw egg is topped with warm potato foam, resulting in a creamily smooth blend. On the other hand, the shitake broth glistens with powdered gold but the star of the dish is definitely the olive oil noodle that you inject into the soup from a syringe. Nevertheless, the broth is appetizingly savoury, complementing the shrimp tempura fairly well. Foie gras is given a different treatment here as it is marinated with vintage Armagnac and formed into a bar with a port wine layer. The last entrée served, Warm Seasonal Mushrooms, was a slight disappointment though, even with its pretty pearls of smoke.
Ironically, as the meal progresses, the amount of science involved diminishes. This is especially evident in the mains served, the Morning Catch Fish and Angus Beef, a personal favourite. The lightness of the former, consisting of a fillet of baked fish, juxtaposes the hearty serving of red meat, drizzled with a delectable red wine sauce.
The meal ended on a tangy note of Green Tea and Hojiblanca. A palette of crumbled raspberries, green tea and vanilla ice-cream, frozen with liquid nitrogen, presents diners with an opportunity to get creatively experimental.
- The Service
Expect nothing less than outstanding professionalism here at Aurum. Their staff are all well-equipped to give you proper advice on how to best enjoy your experiments, ensuring a pleasant overall experience.
The SD Food Advisor's take on Aurum With the food painstakingly prepared with syringes, silver foam canisters and liquid nitrogen; dining here at Aurum feels like a laboratory session for Food Science 101. Rocket science, it is not; but the food here certainly takes a scientific turn in the pursuit of the right combination of flavours, textures and scents. While the food and its methods of preparation take a little getting used to, foodies who yearn to take their gastronomical adventures to a whole new dimension cannot miss this molecular experience. Aurum's brave attempt in introducing Singapore to such unfamiliar territory is truly applaudable.
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